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Artwork, Design, & Photography of Paydn Augustine
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Timpanogos Summit

Well, that took a while…

Timpanogos Summit

November 18, 2020

It’s been almost a month and a half since I made the climb, I almost forgot to write about it entirely. With everything going on in the world today it can be easy to lose track of the little things, like keeping up on your outdoors blog. Regardless, here we are, and I hope you’re still willing to come with me on a little adventure to the top of a mountain.

It all started at roughly 3:30am. My alarm let loose the smooth tunes of the middle of David Bowie’s ‘Changes’, playing from a local radio station, but I didn’t let Ziggy get more than 2 words out; I couldn’t, otherwise I’d be waking up my girlfriend next to me, and lord knows there’d be hell to pay if I interrupt the beauty sleep. I threw some clothes on and shambled to the kitchen, heated up the kettle and poured myself a cup of MTNOPS “Hot Ignite”, starting the day off with some edge. As I packed my gear into a 25L backpack, I pondered if it would be enough, or if I was taking too much. 2 jackets, a base layer, thin glove liners and 3L of water, along with some almonds and electrolyte compounds. I moved back and forth between taking the two jackets and not; I couldn’t decide, so I left one on my shoulder as I made my way to the car, thinking that if it’s cold enough at the trailhead, I’ll pack it with me.

I had downloaded several podcasts for the journey, and started off with Dan Carlin’s first ‘Common Sense’ episode in nearly 5 months, "Show 320: Steering Into the Iceberg”, a bit of a diatribe on the current political situation of the world before the Election of 2020. Winding up the canyon roads in pure darkness is always a bit of an adventure in itself, especially when it’s on a road I’ve never been up. The turns and curves gave an eerie sense of a labyrinth traversal, as if upon on of the swerves I’d be met with a minotaur glaring down my headlights. Finally arriving at my destination, I felt a bit of irritation sweep over me as I parked in front of roughly 20 headlamps glowing and darting around the trailhead in a giant group. “Ah, is this really how crowded this trail is?” I pondered. A quick fee payment left me just a few minutes behind the large group, seeming to be a bible group making their way to the top. I decided to start the trail off with a trail run, switching my headlamp to high and making my way up the mountain to pass my fellow climbers in the starry morning. Gazing further up to the dark mountain, I can see smalelr groups of 1-3 headlamps, scattered all throughout, making their way to the top as well. I can’t even see Mt. Timpanogos anymore, just the shade of the mountains around me and the glowing sky above.

I’d say I was making good progress but if felt like every time I would stop running, I’d be passed by another trail runner, far more athletic than myself, just cruising up the mountain. I’d like to learn from these fantastic people some day, and maybe run a mountain of my own all the way; But for now, a walk with myself is apt enough, having passed the large group of people some time ago and now finally being alone. My favorite time of day to hike is right in the pre-dawn darkness of 4:30-6am. Something about being able to take the headlamp off and barely make out what is in front of you gets me invigorated and excited, listening to the forest come alive and being apart of that cacophony of life. It’s an impeccable feeling, and the time came as I crested the first little basin on the trail, about the first long stretch.

When I look back on the hike, I think of it having 3 or 4 distinct “areas” of interest. There’s the thick, verdant trail that starts at the parking lot and moves up to an outlook of the area you just went through, then a two “layered” valley or basin that gives a glorious view of TImpanogos and the surrounding Wasatch mountains to the South. The first basin is covered in Aspen and pine, but the second is mostly alpine, above the treeline with only a few ancient pines standing among the barren waste. This is where I was able to find my first bit of wildlife in the trip, nearly past the halfway mark on the way up; A small herd of White Tail Deer grazing on the hillside. The wind was blowing against us, and they must have been somewhat acclimated to human presence as the really didn’t care too much for us on the trail some 50yrds away.

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Moving further up, the next podcast in the list, JRE episode 1543 with Brian Muraresku and Graham Hancock was and enlightening journey into human history and the use of psychedelic substances throughout our culture to meet gods and ascend to higher planes of consciousness. The podcast continued with me up the winding paths or rock, bleached and smoothened by the constant hammering of human tread, until I reached the saddle of Timpanogos. The view from this point alone was gorgeous and invigorating, as an icy cool wind blasted over the rocky mountainside. You can see the entire Utah valley from this point, reaching out towards the West Desert and even pieces of the Salt Lake Valley, athough mostly obscured by Timp’s Northern summit. The only way to see beyond this stone behemoth is to ascend Timpanogos Proper, the true “summit” of the mountain range and the most prominent peak.

So begins the tight scramble up towards the highest point, and as a first-timer going up, this little section gave me a bit more anxiety than I’ve ever felt on a mountain before. Perhaps it was the tight cliffs and seemingly deathly void of drops all around, or maybe it was the lack of a truly clear path - of which I often ventured off by accident - but the climb certainly got my hands to perspire a bit. It wasn’t more than 30 minutes to the top of the mountain, however, and just as I reached the summit, the podcast ended, convincing me to buy Muraresku’s book ‘The Immortality Key’ from the excellent adventure they’d just accompanied me on. The top of the mountain has a small hut for climbers to take shelter from the harsh winds, and I was surprised to find many more people here at the top than I had seen coming up. The view at this point was remarkable, and worth the hike in its entirety; Views of Heber and Jordanelle Reservoir, The Salt Lake Valley, Utah County, and the Southern stretch of the Wasatch.

This was my first ever ultra-prominent climb, and I can easily see why so many people are addicted to climbing these colossal structures; the old adage of “climbing the mountain” being an irrefutable point of difficulty and achievement stands to testament here. Photos can give a kind of description, and words can help fill the imagination with ideas and empathetic emotions to what one sees and feels at the top of these peaks, but you really don’t know what it’s like until you get all the way to the top. You’re apart of something at that point that for some reason, many people won’t ever make the commitment to achieve. There’s a sense of wholeness here, like the “Hivemind switch” in our normally apeish brain is flipped, and I feel in the moment that I am no longer me, but apart of something greater than me. There’s a sense of universal insignificance every time I get to the top of a sharp mountain, when I look up it feels like I can almost scrape away the blue and thrust my hand into the black inky void that lies beyond my comfortable layer of ozone. It’s an incredible place to be, not just physically, but mentally; perhaps more so the latter.

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Coming down the mountain felt even more strenuous than going up. After getting to the top, I felt extra fresh and began trail running some miles down, but I had to constantly take stops to admire the now true beauty of the landscape coming to life in the warm afternoon sun. Yellow leaves and gradients of green, crimson, orange and purple exploded in saturation along the trails and hills to astonishing levels I feel I have never seen. Although the life of this place was on it’s way out for the season, it was surely giving one great last bang in it’s presentation to us that can admire it.

Running down the mountain felt almost longer than going up, and after finally making it all the way down the trail of lovely foliage, I was able to gaze back upon my journey and see what I was unable to at the start of the day: Mt. Timpanogos, covered in a navy shade, almost obscured, smiling back on the little parking lot some 8 miles away.

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Gas Goblins

Hiking the High Uintas with the best of old friends

Gas Goblins

September 17, 2020

It seems like it’s been years since we’ve tried putting this together, and now it feels like it’s always been. I can’t really put my finger on why I feel so immediately melancholy when I think about my most recent outing with two of my dearest friends, but I think a simple psychoanalysis could reveal just why I think the thoughts I do. It’s really simple for everyone, really.


It started at 2:30PM on Friday, September 11th, 2020. Nineteen years after an attack of terror that defined the generation I grew up in and shaped the world we occupy today. It wasn’t even a thought for me during the planning, nor while I started up my car after the third time driving down the road and back to pick up little knick nacks I’d forgotten after packing 3 backpacking bags for a 2 night stay in the woods. My company, Spencer and Nate, are both first timers when it comes to backpacking and I have provided just about everything to them except clothing and food, and I wanted to be sure that I had everything they would need for a comfortable stay. Already running late, I still had to stop for gas and pick up a handful of cigars at the local tobacconist before I would pick both of them up from Nate’s abode. 


Seeing both of them for the first time was striking as I was dressed in a decades-long perfection of outdoor gear, and they were in their daily wear clothes strapping on brand new boots. Regardless, we were all excited and eager to get on the road just like many adventures beginnings; each of use filled with stories, energy, and anticipation to hit the trail as we set out on our day. A quick stop to the local grocery for last minute sunscreen and we were off driving up the canyons of Northern Utah. 


We hit the trail right about 4PM, the latest I’ve ever actually started hiking on a trail which made for a fairly scenic and well shaded sunset as we navigated our way along the trail in the shadow of Mount Watson. My friend’s hadn’t anticipated what hiking with a 20lbs pack at 10k elevation was like, thinking their occupation - which entails standing and walking all day - would more than prepare them for the coming journey. A shock at first as we made our way up our first hill, they stood strong in their zealous attempts to keep up with myself, well familiar with the deep breaths the altitude can bring. I applaud their vigilance as first timers, I remember back when I first backpacked at this elevation, a meager .75 mile trial left me winded and grasping at my lighter to slurp down another cigarette; They are making great time on this 3 mile hike today.


We had arrived at our campsite around 5:30 and began to set up just as the sun turned to twilight. A fire restriction has been in effect for several weeks now as precautions against the nearly omnipotent threat of wildfire at any and every dry brushes side. No fires aside from stoves with an ON / OFF switch running on liquid fuel to be allowed. I guided them through a quick set up of my gear, all of it being as intuitive as I could keep it - I personally like to avoid knots as much as possible, despite now knowing a myriad of different techniques and ties. This pays of in dividends setting up a camp with those of newer experience points, and gives us more time to sink down whiskey and smoke our cigars, myself pacing away between introspective discussion attempting to get any decent shots I can. 


As dawn broke I arose before my companions, something I wasn’t expecting at all; when I started backpacking my nights were sleepless and riddled with abrupt awakenings and tossing and turning. It was 6:45 when I woke, but I didn’t really wretch myself from comfort out of my Warbonnet Ridgerunner bridge hammock until about 7:05AM. I went to the lake, grabbed our bear bags from the trees we had planted them in, and listened to a few squirrels fight over the territory I had just invaded.

I peered out at the lake itself, once nearly 2-3 feet deeper, the murky muddy waters that stood mostly still now were in sharp contrast to the crystal clear body I had fished just two months ago. I didn’t realize how radical the changes could be to a well established alpine lake over the summer, and this was the first of many shocking signs I would witness of change taking hold. The brookies were rising at a much lower interval than I had seen once before, but I went to set up my fly rod regardless. 

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An hour and a half later, I walked back towards camp empty handed and started to make myself a morning coffee. It was just about 9, and the Gray Jays began to take curiosity in our campsite. Camp Robbers are a great name for these little mischief makers, with seemingly no fear of humans at all, it’s almost like the same 3 birds I had met during my birthday outing just in June were still up to their usual fuckery, playing chicken with me darting in and out of my reach, perching on hammock straps, and making a mess of anything I’ve left laying around the on the ground. Spencer was the first to rise, sleeping in a Dutchware Chameleon - my usual go-to hammock - and told me the night had gone relatively well, if just a bit strange as a first time hanger. Just as he awoke, so too did the Marmots who had gone unnoticed the night before, seemingly emerging from homes they had made in the rocks next to our camp, my first time ever seeing the critter first hand!

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He and I went on a very short hike, and sat in a field of rocks. The sun was just perfectly beating down in such a way that any outdoorsman would recognize; this same feeling fell over me on my first Turkey hunt earlier this year, finding a spot almost perfectly weathered to fit my form. I nestled in and loosened my hats grip, bringing the bill down just over my eyes enough to block the sun as I closed my eyes, hands tucked away in the pockets of my fleece lined hunting jacket. This moment of peace seemed to inspire Spencer as well, unsure at first how to approach sitting in the dirt care-free, he too was able to find the scent of serenity and take in the morning with a relaxing dirt nap. These short bursts of rest and relaxation are unlike anything I find at home or even out hiking a trail and hanging a hammock to nap in. There’s something to be said about starting an early morning with a hike, a hunt (or in this case, fishing) and then taking a nap with just the rocks around you and the clothing covering your skin. All the normal thoughts of conern for filth disappear, and soon the spiders crawling around your back, birds singing in the pines above, and mid-morning crescent moon just an eye opening away all come together like an orchestra of lethargy bombarding your core with peace, love and understanding.


For a moment, if only a brief 10 minutes, all the comfort in the world befalls you, and you truly connect with the world around you.



After our nap and a quick game of rock-basketball - tossing rocks overhand while lounging to see who could score the most in the center of a few shrubby trees - we went back to our camp, now 11AM, and coaxed Nate from his slumber. He had told me that he didn’t sleep to well and had cold legs through the night; Note to self, get a water bottle warm for Nate tonight. As Nate had wrestled himself from the tent I spotted yet another small critter I had never seen before, this predator striking an even cuter visage - a Pine Marten, scoping out the den of the Marmots and making its rounds through the Lodgepole Pines. The Marten was much larger than I would have ever expected and made for an exhilarating morning of photos.


We all began to prep our breakfasts, I made myself a second coffee and offered them both a burst of energy in the form of a MTN OPS Hot Ignite. Seems to hit the spot as both of them begin coming to life cooking up Ramen and Oatmeal, then we all set off to hit the lake. Nate had just bought his first fishing license in who-knows-how-long, and I offered to have him use my Spinning rod and lures as I presented flies. The morning turned to noon as we watched several dozen hikers walk in and out, a particular group being composed of an obnoxiously annoying and loud couple of women, telling the world and the trout and coyotes and yes even great ol’ Bog himself up in the stars about their adoration for baby yoda. Alas, my focus was on the water, my boots now off as I made my way along the sharp rocks underwater to cast further from the treeline without getting hung up.


The trout are far more timid that last I had fished these waters, many even bolting away at the simple sight of my fly landing above their feeding zone. This I took to be an obvious sign of overpressure from the massive influx of hikers this year due to the COVID-19 outbreak. I had known all about the highway hassles of campers flooding sites and leaving trash all around, but I didn’t think the ramifications would be this colossal. Despite the fearful fish, I was still able to take 3, and 4 others that took a strike that I didn’t set. I had released all of them, thinking “I’ll take the next one!” but 3 hours on the water left Nate with nothing but some good casting time and a few lost lures. Spencer had spent his time whittling down a walking stick, whose physical properties were somewhat perplexing; the wood itself was dead as a doornail, but to the touch remained almost freezingly cold. A very bad-ass staff of ice to be sure.



We headed back to camp and found that a family decided to set up shop just 100ft away from our campsite, despite multiple other location to pitch. They were far enough out though that it seems we didn’t bother eachother too much. We made our lunches - for me, it was some hard goat cheese and cheddar with a dried italian sausage - then played a game of Arch Enemy in MTG. I had brought two of my favorite decks, but Nate had only brought a couple Duel Decks (Elves vs. Inventors) and there was a big power differential, so we opted to put the two lower decks up as a team against my Eldrazi Post deck. The Eldrazi certainly made a name for themselves, Cloudpost proving why it’s banned in so many formats.

After the games, Nate took to lounging in the Chameleon to read a book as Spencer and I set out on a small hike.

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The hike was initially just to got get the water filter filled, but it turned into us just walking, finding a hill on the horizon and saying, “let’s see what’s over there!” This is something I haven’t done in years, and was quite honestly one of the funnest hikes I’ve ever been on, rivalling the aimless walk a different group of friends and I took in Idaho some 4 years ago. Over hills, up small scrambles, and over more hills, I had noted to Spencer that there was indeed a like nearby, but it was roughly a half mile or more from where our camp was.

We looked out into the valley below, and decided it must be in an area where the treeline broke, but continued to press on in that direction. Not 200 paces further, we arrived at the aptly named Hidden Lake, and remarked on how we’d wished to set up camp and swim at this lake, with no neighbors and no obnoxious hikers in sight; Just as we had arrived, a quick gale hit the lake and whistled a vortex along the waters surface, creating a “water-devil” like effect on the water’s edge, twisting along the lake until it made it’s way to us, then disappeared into the tall grass. We skipped rocks a bit along the serene surface, then set back towards our water bag, then back to camp. 



We played a few more games of MTG for the night, then all enjoyed a somewhat shared meal; Despite my ketogenic lifestyle, I had prepared the same impromptu second-night dinner as my friends: a luxurious Cheddar and Broccoli soup. We smoked our second cigars as the sun set, enjoyed our party-wide immersion stew, then played a few more games of Magic before I prepped some “Slumber” sleep aid to help us all arrive safely in the dream world. Just an hour or two after I had hit the hay, I awoke to the cries of coyotes roughly a half-mile or mile from our camp. I love hearing these guys at night, their wild howls and sobs gleaming through the woods as I stare up at the stars outside of my bugnet. Very few sounds bring me more cool comfort than the creatures of the night in the forests of Utah.


I slept in much later this morning, the Sleep Cider seems to have done the job for all of us well. We all awoke nearly in unison around 9AM and began to clean up camp. A quick breakfast gave us all the energy we needed to get things packed and hitting the trail about 11 - I told my compatriots that I had intended to fish for just an hour until noon, and they obliged my request with surprising approval - Usually folks are real eager to get going out the last day, but my friends were content to wait around in the shade as I earned another sunburn on the water. 6 strikes later, I finally landed a fish, albeit fowl-hooked, at 11:50AM. I was happy to get a hit, but these fish have never been more nervous. It’s incredible how they can change from biting at almost anything to ignoring almost everything in just a matter of 60 days. 





Our way back was just the beginning of the day, as I had asked my friends if they’d like to ascend the mountain that had been leering over us the past few days like a watchful parent. Again to my astonishment, Spencer and Nate agreed, and so we hiked our pack to where the “trail” on my AllTrails app met with roughly our direction out of the woods. We dropped the bags and brought only waters, I carried my GPS and D500 camera as well, and made our way up the winding hills.


The initial hike wasn’t bad, but as you crest the last hill, the “Mountain” proper still stand tall before you. The trail marker on the GPS reads appropriately; You just climb up. My friends began the ascent with me, taking several breaks on their way as the air began to thin out, and before they knew it they were 500ft up on loose rock. This was apparently a shock to the system, and with the effects of elevation starting to take effect, they told me that this, just about the half-way point, was where they would need to turn back. “Adios amigos” I told them, and set out to continue my ascent.

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This is where the entire trip, for me, took a turn for the worse. With each step I took higher and higher, I felt more and more ostracized and alienated to the friends I have cared so deeply about for so long. It is a feeling that is hard to describe; I have determined myself to daily discipline for almost 5 years now, exercising, running, working on cardio, and training for this very kind of lifestyle. And now I am here, climbing the mountain, but the realization dawned on me like the cresting step to the top of the flat mountain after a nearly vertical scramble up loose, technical rock.



I have left my friends behind, both literally and figuratively. For what? To peer down upon the lakes which we froliced around, the campsite where we laughed and spoke philosophically, to see the fires burning thousands of acres to the east, and the other mountains and passes along this range of geology I have ascribed so much mysticism and romanticism to? Yes, I have ascended to see all of this, and here I am: Alone. The feelings of depression flooded over and consumed me, at times almost paralyzing me atop the mountain. I rushed to my phone to play a song, desperate to find something I can relate to; “Lonely Press Play” by Damon Albarn. 

My heart rate slows. The beauty finds me, the same as the dirt nap from the day before, but this time different. My heavy lungs breath deeply. I look out over the ever evolving wilds rolling over one another with rocky peaks and pine-speckled terrain below. I’ve explored so much here and yet there is still so much more to see. For just a moment I peered over the edge, some thousand feet down a steep and rocky mountainside, and the call of the void whispers it’s indulgence to me. “God, how far down does that go”, I think to myself. “Too far to think about”, my logical brain kicks in. I start a brief Instagram Live session making my way down the top of the ridgeline before stopping the broadcast to focus on the tricky descent down the bouldered hill. 

I found my friends at the bottom and we made our way home, stopping by Dicks Burgers on the way back and finding solace in the greasy, meaty excess. I felt a lot better after the meal but the dark cloud still rained over my head despite having a lovely time with my friends in the woods and truly, honestly looking forward to the remote possibility of getting them outside again. I don’t know why this wave of depression hit me so deeply, so evocatively; Like I said in the first paragraph, it’s probably just a simple psycho-analysis away. Those who rise to fame and fortune are often noted as not finding peace and happiness, but sadness and despair. 

Maybe this is the fate that all lonesome outdoorsmen face; Trying so hard to find peace and prosperity through health, seeing life from a different perspective, but only finding ourselves in the end. The despair puzzles me, intrigues me, and forces me to think deeper about myself and my motives. 


Why do I keep climbing?

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Porch photography,

bingeing Bowie

Lightening across the Oquirrhs; 8.25.20

Porch photography bingeing Bowie

August 25, 2020

I was just about to head to bed for the night around 11PM when I happened to get a peek out the window to see the trees waving a bit more than usual. I stepped out on the porch to a rather dusty night, and after a few moments of enjoying the cool breeze, I noticed a few brief blips of light across the valley to the far North; Looks like I’ll get the chance to shoot my first lightning shots of the year.

I’m not sure if I am to blame it on my own hesitation, laziness, or there just hasn’t been that great of storms this year, but I’ve been pining to get some new shots the mesmerizing streaks across the sky, especially after my last (over-edited) shoot during 2019’s spring season. Tonight’s storm certainly wasn’t the best, and it was quite the trivial pursuit to get the 6 shots that I did - only five of which I’ll be posting below, for the sake of continuity between shots (all but one are landscape 2:3 or 16:9).

Overall I took something to the tune of 800 shots, all of which within a range of 3” to 5” second exposure time and a wildly varying aperture - 3.5 through 11 - mostly due to variations to the telescopic zoom. The shots of the mountain range and small, unlit power poles, stations, and trees along the ridgelines were all around about 100mm zoom, whereas the epic shots of Farnsworth Peak (tall, brightly lit towers) were all the way out at 300mm, which was a real bitch to focus in on without a reliable tripod, a purchase that is sorely needed.

Edit: The following paragraph is wrong, as Squarespace takes the images and resizes them to ~1500x1000.
If you want the full-size images, feel free to pick them up from my Google drive, here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ke6ctHCaJVftBAsnH0iNpgr1iI5KE7N1?usp=sharing

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Normally I’d upload the images at around 1920x~1080 in a jpeg file set to around 80% quality during export to save volumes of SSD space, but the images I’ll be providing today are quite the treat: I want to present you, dear viewer, with the best color gamut and range that a humble little noobie photoblog can provide, which means you’re looking at a width of around 4000px, in lossless PNG-24. I hope they are enjoyable, and feel free to download a few to use as desktop wallpapers if you so desire. Any other posting please just give credit and post the URL, and please forgive the (very possible) long load time.

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Procrastination

An ascent of Lowe Peak, UT

Procrastination

August 03, 2020

I’ve always looked at the Oquirrh Mountains as a kind of backyard playground, full of adventure and intrigue. Since my early childhood I’ve used the now nearly entirely red-tapped Butterfield Canyon Road as a recreation outlet just 20 minutes drive from my home, hiking and camping along the road with friends throughout our teen years and into early adulthood. I’ve spent so much time in the canyon that I can now walk through it in the pitch black of night and tell you exactly where we are. It wasn’t until 2016 that I started to attempt bagging peaks, something that I thought was at least reserved for hyper-athletes and at most neigh impossible to traverse.

Just four years later and I have some 7 peaks down, with 2020 promised to be a big year of peak bagging for me personally. Unfortunately, procrastination and laziness has taken me over, as well as developing other very skill-intensive hobbies (fly fishing) as left me without any big names under my belt this year. Promising to have done Lowe for the last 2 years, I knew I had to get it done, it was just a matter of when; and When was supposed to be 2 weeks ago, in a loop trail that I had concocted connecting Rocky Peak, Lowe, and Flat Top Mountain in a single run, private land permissions in tow. However, I didn’t wake up in time, opting to sleep in weekend after weekend. This past Friday, 7.31.20, I arose at 7am - still late - and told myself that I would make it to the top of the mountain, no matter the conditions.

The first part of the ascent is the hour-long drive through the desert, parking at a trailhead deep in the clutches of the Ophir Canyon community - a sleepy little town that you’d think to be abandoned, but instead is filled with life, even boasting a community school - at the end of a long dirt road. My hike started out with a friendly conversation with a young man who I would assume to be a local hunter, telling me he and his grandfather were in the area just returning from their trip up to Flat Top. We spoke for a few minutes about our hunter adventures, how it was both our first years in the sport, and our admiration of traditional archery. With a few goodbyes and my pack loaded with 3.5L of water, I started up the trail, flicking my new InReach on just for testing.

The beginning of the trail was surprisingly verdant and moist, abundant with free-range cattle that spooked at the slightest step. Several river crossings offered a scenic and refreshing start to a hike you would assume to be almost entirely arid. The trail cut into the coarsing creek many times opting for a nice boot-cooling splash and an excuse to wet my hat before the major ascent.

I continued down for about 1.3 miles before coming across what looks to be a fork in the road, with the trail either continuing further along or fading into a large green field littered with aspen trees and shrub oak. It petered up slightly, guiding my view upward to the ridge above. This is the best way to get up to the saddle between Lowe and The Jumpof - another small but vertical climb before Flat Top - and offered me my first view of Lowe Peak - at this point some 3,000ft above me, it appeared to tower in the distance and flex her best intimidation.

Moving through the field is when I realized the reports of “wear pants!” were necessary. There is no trail in the area from here on out. Few game trails scatter the hillside, as you start to gain elevation and earn greater and greater gradient verticality. The overwhelmingly lush mountainside was not humble in it’s growth, with Oak, Pine, Sage and all sorts of wild flowers and shrubs clinging tightly to your legs, like the fingers of the dead trying to drag you down. Dredging this hillside at almost 20 degrees it felt, the best advice I could think to reassure myself was saying, “Are you moving up? OK, you’re going the right direction". A glance backward every 15 minutes or so to stop for water was proof enough, with each passing step becoming more beautiful and revealing more of the once hidden landscape.

The break in the treeline was abrupt and surprising, the sun beating down hard and hot with the loss of shade and the introduction of a purely sage-covered mountainside. I could see the crest of the ridge now, and continued to move through the richly scented fauna, filling my nose with a delightful aroma of wildflowers and fresh, blowing sagebrush. As I approached the crest of the mountain, a falcon appeared just above me, soaring with angelic grace and laser precision. I watched as it scoured the range for a meal, moving up and down the hills and falling into the valley below before divebombing towards the adjacent mountain range. Looking South, Lowe Peak was just a few tall hills away, from here it looks like it’d taken an eternity to reach.

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Moving up the ridgeline was a relief, despite the ever increasing elevation. The breeze coarsed over the top of the mountain range, bringing with it the first clouds of the day, just as I started to make my ascent up the loose and rocky terrain. Several falcons now visible coursing the skies over their homes looking to provide a meal for the tweeting chicks in each nest. I marched forward and upward, moving closer to my goal and stopping at each major hilltop for a drink of water and a bite of energy chews.

I normally don’t bring waffles, sandwiches, or sugary chews on hikes, but this month of July has been my first long term break from a ketogenic lifestyle - something I do intend to return to in the next couple of days in fact - and I thought there would be no better snack to have atop a challenging hike than a half-hoagie from a local grocery store; once my favorite “premade” dinner hoagie available near me, and a staple of the days I used to explore the canyons below. As I looked down thousands of feet below, the Oquirrh Mountains revealed their intricate and ancient geology to me, the memories of my youth spent down below, camping, drinking, getting into mischief and celebrating with abandon, all feels like a lifetime away from where I am now.

Just as my legs began to show signs of stress - a pulling sensation in my left thigh, particularly - I made it to the summit. An American flag clasped tightly to a flagpole or storm rod gave the landmark a position of finality and a place to store the peak’s ledger and survey spike. I broke down my once 19.5lb pack, sat with my back against the pole, and began to eat my well-earned lunch. It wasn’t long until I became aware that I had in fact, just sat on my InReach - screen down - in a pile of rocks. The screen had earned it’s first battle scar, on it’s maiden voyage at that.

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Various insects and butterflies kept me company atop the mountain, which provided stunning views of the Wasatch Front’s most breathtaking landmarks; To the North, Kelsey and Butterflied Peaks, Clipper even further behind, with the Stansbury Mountains and the Great Salt Lake peaking through the cracks of the range I stood upon. The Salt Lake Valley, in all it’s decadent smoggy splendor, laid to the East, dwarfed by the Wasatch mountains and the omnipotent Lone Peak towering about it all. Timpanogos and the Utah valley, Utah Lake in tow, all clearly visible to the South East, and the barren wastes of the West Desert and Five Mile Pass to the South West, the small town of Ophir lay in the canyon below, and further out to true West, the small city of Stockton appeared, just barely visible above the Rocky Peak area.

I moved back down the mountain with haste, as I had plans to be in Ogden this night and it was already creeping up to 3pm. It took me roughly two hours to get down the mountain, following the reverse of the information I had given myself before: “If you’re heading down, you’re going the right way”. On this stretch, I was glad to have brought my poles along for the trip, as many steep and barely visible dropoffs would have given me a good tumble into the weeds and fallen logs on my descent.

I’ll be returning to the Oquirrh range soon to claim my first Ultra-prominent peak, just 30ft higher in elevation than Lowe, the Flat Top Mountain to the South. I have obtained permission to walk the land here, all owned by the Ault Family. In earlier years, I had quarreled with that name, giving disdain and jealously that they owned such magic lands. Now in my adulthood, I have a different mindset on the matter, one of reverence and understanding; these folks, who offer hikers permission simply via a quick email, could block off their land, or even worse, sell off to the corporate entity running the all-encompassing mine to the north. But they’ve held out, likely to the miner’s chagrin, and it makes me happy to know that at least some part of the majestic Oquirrh range still belongs to the common people, who will to use the land not as a resource to exploit, but as a place to reconnect to our roots through recreation and observation. Thanks for letting us through, Weston, and I hope you and yours stay true to the land you possess.

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Flies, Fish, & Mosquitos

A Birthday in the Uintas, post 1 of 2

Flies, Fish, and most of all, Mosquitos.

July 03, 2020

Tuesday morning was a late, lazy start as usual. Knowing we have some time, we made a nice breakfast of scrambled eggs and honey glazed ham with black coffee and a tall glass of milk for the Missus. It wasn’t until 1PM that we hit the trail, but light sleet and an endearing sense of adventure geared us up to get walking. It was our first time trying out the brand new ULA Equipment packs, and in an effort to reduce my normally ludicrous base weight, I opted to bring along a Smart Water bottle instead of my normal Nalgene - a whopping 5oz savings, I know! - but only a mile in with not even a sip, the bottle fell from the carry handle I had it attached to, blowing out the entire bottom of the bottle. An interesting start this, June 30th 2020, my 28th birthday.

Moving along the trail, in the beginning, was nothing short of a seemingly Norse epic fantasy novel, with snow-covered peaks and cool drifting air coursing through our rain shells. The icy sleet was bouncing off our packs mostly, a somewhat relieving effect to the fact of not having pack covers (we always use contractor bags for our down inside the packs though!) and moving higher up the trail past several scenic lakes. Each time I would stop to look back at my girlfriend Ylish, the views became even more breathtaking. The absence of hikers and backpackers on the trail was also a welcome change to the anticipation I had for the day, creeping closer to the celebrations of Independence Day in a post-COVID America would most certainly mean large numbers along the delicate alpine trails.

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Moving up along the wet and rocky corridors, it didn’t take long until we were rewarded with extraordinary views of the many divided lakes, bald peaks, and notchy passes just a few hours walk from one of the most popular trailheads along this stretch of the range. The gloomy cleared away, bringing only occasional downpours of frozen raindrops and clear blue skies with the most serene and pure golden sunlight to pierce the immaculate fresh pine-tinged air. The lakes were bug-free, and the fish were looking to feed, so after getting our hammocks set up, I set out to the shoals to see what I may find.

The water was crystal clear and still giving 20/20 vision on all the lakes abundant Brook Trout dancing along the shoreline, occasionally popping up to nab a quick bite - perfect conditions to start fishing. I began casting out with a Parachute Adams #16 and was almost immediately rewarded with a bite, and my heart jumped into action. Stripping the little guy in, I was excited to snap a photo and let him off back into his home, then get back in an attempt to set myself a personal record. I’m still very new to the sport, having only picked up a spinning rod 2 years ago, and Fly Fishing just 3 months prior. I’ve fallen in love with fly fishing, thanks to the input of a few inspiring friends and mentors, and am all-in when it comes to dedication and learning all that I can about the game.

I cast out again with the Adams, and again, was met with another beautiful high-mountain trout. I continued to experiment through the evening until it was time to gather tinder, build a fire, and settle down for the night. As the sun set, the great Murdoc began his own ritual of cloud conjuration, blessing the lake with a monumental appearance before the sun faded entirely, leaving our lady Casseopia to watch over our little den from the other side of the mountain.

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I awoke from bed around 5am, tossing a little too much in my sleep and deciding to get an early start in an attempt to catch a sunrise, something I don’t normally chase, wishing I had the discipline to do so. I was glad that I did, setting up my small alcohol stove on the shore for a coffee and oatmeal breakfast to watch the sky shift in a strange long-form light show of fuscia, garnet, coral and mauve into brilliant hues of marigold and macaroon, with a finale of Murdoc glancing into the mirror sheen of the lake at my feet. Another cast after the sunrise brought in a very small brookie. Some talking time and a nap for the two of us gave me enough energy to head out and catch another brook trout, this one as a lunchtime snack, before going on a midday adventure in search of more opportunity and bigger ponds.

We first visited the lake directly adjacent to us, not 50 paces away from the first, and began to throw flies at the fish inside. It seems they had become picky eaters in the sunlight, and I was only able to catch a few other very small fish before moving on to the third lake in our small campout area. This one was seemingly devoid of fish altogether, instead harboring various sizes of salamanders. Catching a few shots of the photogenic little critters, we looped around the lakes before I started fishing again as Ylish took to relaxing in the sun and observing the surroundings - the fantasy ranger eyes of the young lady were sharp enough to even spot a family of Mountain Goats high up on the steep cliffsides of the mountain whose shadow we rested in. I was even able to catch a few small guys before we headed back to our camp to begin preparing dinner - just Ramen noodles tonight.

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The water began to boil over the top of the subtlely sexy Fancee Feest stove I never go without as my stomach grumbled in disappointment to the thought of eating just ramen for dinner. I excused myself, asking Ylish to take over the water and ramen process for me for a moment, promising her a trout for dinner. Not 10 minutes later I returned with two of the largest I had caught thus far, scoring their sides and roasting in a pan over the warm coals of a fire made earlier as a bid for mosquito repellant. Large swarms of gnats and mosquitos began to attack our campsite with full force and truly showed some muscle. I’ve never seen a mosquito season this rough, but I was at times surrounded by easily over 20 of the bloodsuckers if I stood still for more than a few moments.

Our thermacell and DEET seemed to do little against the horde, but as the sun moved to twilight, the lakes insects began to settle, and instead the fish sprung to life. I eagerly leaped at the opportunity to fly fish a high alpine lake in the Uintas, with a gorgeous sunset on the horizon of the lake and temperatures just perfect enough to stay without shivering. This is where I really began to move my daily catch record number higher than I would have imagined. At number 9, I turned to Ylish as the lake itself turned darker but glowed with the light of the sky, and asked if I should shoot for 10. She agreed, “Well, you really do want that double digit..” and smirk lit her face and I could do nothing but match as I began to cast out again.

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My first ever double-digit day fly fishing was with a catch so comical I could do nothing but laugh across the lake, now loud with the sound of plops and gulps as the fish continued their frenzy. As I had cast out and saw the 10th trout take the lure - an #18 Mosquito - I set the hook, to my absolute suprise, a small 4 inch Brook Trout flew careening towards me and landed gently in the tall swampy grass at my feet. What a way to get a double digit night, the small guy really made the entire trip worth it.

I continued to cast into the luminescent twilight, a dreamlike landscape where it was just me, my beloved, and the lake that was providing to me what so freely and gleefully what others wish for. This moment was something that had my heart so warm, the cool air and humid air did nothing to my skin but invigorate me further. Each deep breath I took, each back cast and follow through I set down, every glance around the frenzy of trout in an otherwise serene landscape gave me moments of which I will close my eyes and think of for the rest of my life.

And we still had an entire day and night left up here.

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